A slapdash white asparagus gratin is a waste. This dish deserves a real weekend effort, with soft homemade spaetzle, perfectly cooked asparagus, and a golden Comté topping. We take our time, because that’s precisely what makes this gratin generous without being heavy.

When it comes out of the oven, the cream is still bubbling at the edges of the dish and the Comté has formed small blond, almost crunchy spots. The white asparagus retains its vegetal sweetness, with that fine, slightly sweet aroma that reminds us of spring. The spaetzle catch the sauce in their irregular hollows, and that’s where the gratin becomes really interesting.