This gratin is nothing original. And that’s exactly why it wins every time. When homemade mashed potatoes meet a well-made béchamel and go into the oven wrapped in turkey, the result far exceeds the effort.

The surface comes out of the oven cracked and golden, with those little bubbles of melted cheese that have lightly browned on the edges — a sign that the heat has done its work. Underneath, the béchamel remains creamy, almost pearly, still slightly wobbly. The rolls hold their shape well, the mashed potatoes compact but soft inside. The smell of gratin filling the kitchen, that aroma of hot milk and caramelized cheese, always has the same immediate effect.