Saturday morning, when the house starts to come alive and you don’t feel like making life complicated, this is exactly the kind of recipe you pull out. Twenty minutes of prep, one pan, ingredients you almost always have on hand — and something really good to eat. No battle plan needed.

The surface is golden, slightly crispy to the touch. Inside, the cheese has melted into a warm, stringy mass that stretches when you bite. During cooking, the smell of browned butter rises from the pan and fills the kitchen — hard to stay away. And that uniform amber color you get when you turn the rolls at just the right moment: it says everything about what’s waiting.