Stuffed cabbage rolls are the kind of dish that divides people. Some find them too long to make, too laborious. Personally, I think that’s exactly what makes them one of the best weekend dishes — when you finally have the time to cook without watching the clock.

The tomato sauce, after an hour of cooking, has taken on a brick-red, almost orange hue — dense, concentrated, almost candied. The rolls are nestled tightly against each other, the cabbage leaves a translucent olive green, soaked in juices. As you open them with a spoon, the steam escapes all at once. The filling — meat and rice melted together — crumbles slightly, just as it should.