The smell that rises when vinegar hits a hot pan — a bit sharp, slightly pungent — is the signal that Kartoffelsalat is on its way. This German potato salad is eaten warm, with boiling dressing poured directly over slices that are still steaming. It has nothing to do with a classic salad: it’s a dish in its own right, comforting and straightforward.

The potato slices are thick, slightly translucent where the hot dressing has penetrated them — like frosted glass. It smells of broth, tempered vinegar, and underneath, a smoky note from the grilled turkey lardons. The surface glows with a matte sheen, dotted with fresh chopped parsley that is just starting to soften from the heat. It’s rustic, generous — exactly how it should be.