Gua bao is the kind of dish that looks intimidating on a restaurant menu. You imagine secret Asian techniques, a chef who spent ten years learning how to fold, and mysterious steam. In reality, it’s a very simple leavened dough and sautéed chicken with five ingredients.

Look at this bun. The dough is slightly translucent at the edges, soft under your fingers, still warm from the steamer. The chicken inside glows with a dark, almost chocolatey caramel. Cucumber ribbons break it all up with their bright green. A scent of toasted sesame and warm ginger still floats above — it’s fresh, sweet and salty, crunchy and melting all at the same time.