Ground beef and potato gratin is the kind of dish that people pretend is too basic, only to end up scraping the bottom of the pan. No fancy techniques. No impossible-to-find ingredients. Just a bit of care and a good oven.

The top: a cheddar crust that has taken on an amber caramel color at the edges, with those little bubbles frozen as they cool. Underneath, the potatoes have soaked up the mushroom cream—they are melt-in-the-mouth but still hold their shape under the spoon. The aroma that rises when you dive in is that mixture of roasted mushrooms and warm cheese that clings to your nostrils and makes you salivate before you even serve. This is exactly what comfort food is supposed to do.