A Friday night. Nobody really wants to cook, but everyone is hungry. This is exactly where the stromboli comes into play — generous, quick to assemble, and capable of clearing the cutting board in less than ten minutes.

The crust is a uniform amber brown, slightly crackled on the folds of the roll. Inside, layers of dough alternate with strata of melted mozzarella and beef pepperoni whose edges have browned during baking. The smell coming out of the oven blends roasted herbs, warm cheese, and baked dough — that scent you can smell from the hallway. And when you finally slice it, the string of mozzarella holds for two seconds before giving way.