The Sloppy Joe is the sandwich that culinary purists look down upon. Wrongly so. It’s exactly this kind of dish — loud, messy, looking nothing like fine dining — that reminds us why we really cook.

The sauce is a deep brown, almost mahogany, glossy and thick like a meat jam. It clings to the lightly toasted brioche bun, which offers just enough resistance before soaking it all in. It smells of light smoky caramel, concentrated tomato, and something sweet that tickles the back of the nose. And when you take a bite, the warm sauce inevitably drips onto your fingers — it’s planned, it’s intentional.