Is there any dish more deceptive than roasted potatoes? Seemingly simple, yet most of the time we end up with soft cubes, no crust, and no soul. These parmesan potatoes fix the problem once and for all.

The baking sheet comes out of the oven and the pieces are a deep golden brown, almost caramel on the edges, with a parmesan crust that has slightly blackened in places and breaks off in crunchy shards. The aroma rising up is grilled cheese mixed with warm garlic and a base of nutty butter. When you bite into one, the sound is sharp and dry — not soft, not ambiguous — and the inside releases a puff of steam, meltingly soft, sweet, almost creamy. It’s the kind of side dish that disappears before the main course.