This dish smells wonderful from the moment the leeks hit the hot pan — that sweet, slightly caramelized aroma rising before they even start to melt. On a Saturday when you want to eat well without spending the afternoon in the kitchen, this is exactly what you make. Thirty-five minutes, one pan, and a result far exceeding the effort.

The sauce takes on a lightly creamy pink hue when the salmon juice blends into the fat — neither white nor orange, something in between that’s truly appetizing. The tagliatelle naturally curl into it, each ribbon coated in a fine, silky layer. You smell the dill before you even see it on the plate. And there’s always a bit of sauce left in the pan that you finish with a spoon, because it’s too good to leave.