Appetizer pizzettes are rarely good. Either the dough is soggy, the cheese has turned into a greasy puddle, or the vegetables have soaked through the base. These cheesy two-cheese pizzettes are the exception — and the reason is that they follow a simple rule most recipes ignore.

Imagine a dozen small, golden rounds, light caramel-colored at the edges, resting on the still-warm baking sheet. On some, the Fourme de Montbrison has melted into creamy swirls, dense and fragrant. On others, the Langres has formed a slightly wrinkled, almost orange surface, with that cellar and warm milk scent that wafts up as soon as you get close. The mushrooms underneath have stayed tender, and the peppers shine with an almost translucent yellow. A warm bite, the thin crust cracking slightly under your teeth.