That smell drifting from the oven when the Parmesan cream begins to caramelize at the edges of the dish — it’s impossible to stay in another room. Salmon-stuffed cannelloni are the kind of dish you pull out on a Sunday for no particular reason, turning the meal into something real. Total comfort, no complications.

The dish arrives at the table still steaming, the surface slightly crispy where the Parmesan has gratinéed into a golden crust like light caramel. Under this layer, the cream has thickened into a silky coating, and when you cut a cannelloni with a spoon, the pale pink salmon filling gently escapes, mixed with melting ricotta and the small orange petals of zucchini flowers. A puff of garlic and fresh basil rises immediately. It’s simple. It’s very good.